Lakes and Ponds
Large lakes and ponds are most commonly used for swimming, raising trout and other fish, and water run-off but are most commonly built due to the need for fill dirt around homes during the construction process. Size will vary according to design, budget, and availability of water, but these ponds commonly range from about 50 feet in diameter to several surface acres. Regardless of size, Blue Thumb can educate you on the maintenance requirements to creating beautiful, clear, and healthy water.
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Why Proactive care is the new standard in pond management.
The old way...
For years, the accepted method of pond management was to wait for a problem, like an algae bloom or excessive aquatic weed growth and then “react to it” with a chemical application. Although this is effective at providing a quick fix, it does not address the actual problem. In many cases, this reactive approach is catching up with pond owners. Those that have been practicing this form of management are finding it more and more difficult to control unwanted weeds and algae. Chemicals are a great tool but not the complete toolbox.
Why is the old way outdated?
Over the years, each time you applied chemicals; weeds and algae were killed off and left to rot on the pond’s bottom. This is equivalent to adding fertilizer to your pond. When weeds and algae die, they immediately start to biodegrade. During this process, the dead organic matter is converted into rich organic muck. Although this would be great for a garden, it has a very negative effect on a pond. The nutrients found in this muck greatly contribute to future weed and algae problems.
The NEW way...
There’s a better way to prevent these nutrient buildups from occurring in your pond. We call it PROACTIVE Care involving these tools:
#1 Sub-surface aeration:
By aerating your pond from the bottom up, using, you’ll circulate incredible amounts of water, drastically increasing the dissolved oxygen levels in your water column, which in turn will allow for increased levels of beneficial bacteria to accumulate in your pond.
#2 Bacteria augmentation:
Naturally occurring beneficial bacteria begin to colonize in most natural ponds when water temperatures reach approximately 50 degrees Fahrenheit. During early stages of a pond’s life cycle this may be enough to maintain a healthy ecosystem although as a pond gets older, especially when chemical applications are needed, it is necessary to start thinking proactively to subsidize Mother Nature’s efforts.
The PROACTIVE Care solution? Addandnatural bacteria to radically increase your bacteria count. The billions of PondClear™ specialized microbes will compete for the nutrients in your water column while the MuckAway™ sinking pellets send billions of microbes to the bottom of your pond, working quickly to eliminate up to 5” of muck each season, as well as prevent future build up.
#3 Pond Shading:
Excessive sunlight can have a negative effect on water quality. Addingwill beautify your pond and provide a natural shade while improving water quality.
By exercising PROACTIVE Care (Sub-surface Aeration, Bacteria Augmentation and Pond Shading), you’ll be aggressively addressing the root of the problem – excess nutrients and sunlight. Give PROACTIVE Care a try… you have nothing to lose – other than nutrients and muck! We GUARANTEE you will be happier with the results!
WINTERIZING YOUR FARM POND
Get Your Farm Pond Ready for the Winter Months
As our warm summer months come to an end, we receive many questions regarding “pond winterization”. Winterizing your pond is an important step to ensure a safe and healthy start-up next spring. Here are some easy tips to help you on your way.
- General Clean Up Tips: Set aside a few hours to do some picking up around your pond. Clean the inlets or outlets of any debris that may have fallen in and pick up and sticks or brush that may have fallen into the pond. If debris are left to decompose, they will only contribute to the build up of nutrients and muck. Continuing applyinguntil water temperatures dip below 50°F to keep reducing the nutrient load and muck levels in the pond.
- A Final Pond Treatment: Treat any remaining weeds, with Ultra PondWeed Defense, or algae, withto get these weeds killed.
- Winterize your Aeration System or Fountain: Keeping your aerator running in the winter is a great idea if fish kills are a concern. It will keep the oxygen levels high in your pond and keep a hole in the ice to allow for toxic gases to escape. If you decide to run your system in the winter, no winterization is needed. You should shut down your aeration system or fountain if you plan to use your pond for recreation such as; ice skating, ice fishing, snowmobiling or riding ATV’s on the ice.
If you own anand are shutting it down for the winter:
- Unplug your system
- Disconnect the airline(s) and plug the lines that lead into the pond with a plug or plastic bag.
- Place your cabinet in dry, covered area (garage, barn, basement, etc.), to prevent the system from freezing.
- There is no winterization needed for the diffusers, they may be left in the pond over the winter.
If you own a:
- Remove your fountain.
- Depending on the model, minimal winterization is needed.
- If possible bring the fountain and power cord into protected area, mice and other rodents like to chew power cords and components when stored outside. DO NOT cover the unit if stored outside, this only makes a better habitat for varmints.
- Remember to inspect all power cords, props and lights (if applicable) for damage. Winter is the best time to make any necessary repairs.